I’m not sure how I will be able to condense all the sights, sounds, and experiences into a blog(again without the aid of photos) but I will have to try so that you can have a little taste of Haiti too. Our trip began at 4:00a.m. on Monday 17th. We walked the 10 minutes or so that it takes to get to the main road. But they were a little late coming for me so we missed the early guagua and had to wait about an hour before a public car came by. It took 2 taxis and 2 buses to get us to the border and that required about 4 hours.
When we reached Dajabon we had to walk several blocks through swarms of people coming and going with their wheelbarrows of goods or their load on their head. It’s amazing to see the amount of stuff they can carry on their heads. The bridge was packed with people but if it’s closer for them they just walk through the river to get across to their destination.
I had to stop at the DR office of immigration (I think that’s what it is) and pay $25.US to leave. I’m not sure why I couldn’t just have walked into Haiti because I didn’t see any checkpoints or controls anywhere. The same on the Haitian side. I just walked voluntarily into their office and paid my $1.US, but no one forced me to do that. It seemed like I could have just kept on walking along like all the other people. Anyway, I did it right and then we hopped on the ‘moto’ and headed to Ouanaminthe. The Pastor took us to meet his sister whose house we would rest at while he was at work.
After he left we decided to go exploring and went to the market and wandered around for a couple of hours. I felt like I couldn’t waste a minute just sitting around. I had given one girl the money to buy and prepare the food for us so we went back to the house after our walk and played some cards with the children. Judnel is such a considerate young man. He made sure everyone had something to eat even though they didn’t want to come to the table with us.
When we had finished the girls said they would take us for a walk and we went to the town square where they were busily cleaning in preparation for Flag Day on Tuesday. We played a bit on the teeter-totters and then Judnel went to call his mother to tell her we would arrive the next day. This was accomplished by stopping one of the many boys/men who are wandering around with a satellite phone for this purpose. The majority of the people can’t afford a cell phone, although they are getting more and more common, so you give them the number to dial and depending on how long you talk it can cost as little as 5 goude. Fortunately the goude and the peso are about the same value right now so it wasn’t too difficult for me to convert to their currency.
That night I also learned that 1000 goude makes $200 Haitian. I stayed in a small hotel and my room was $200. Lest you think that’s extravagant for a missionary, that’s less than $35.CDN. I was thrilled to find I would have my own bathroom in my room with running water and even electricity for the evening and a ceiling fan. I was really tired and although I tried to write my journal I faded out by 10. The bed was comfortable and the place was quiet which amazed me.
Next morning I got up around 5(6 DR time). Pastor and Judnel arrived for me around 7. I got some money changed and we headed out to buy some things to take to his mother. We had a little boat ride for 5 goude, which took us to the other side of the river and there we ran into a friend of his who drives a moto. We decided that was the best way to go to his mother’s. Well actually all the time I deferred to his judgment because what do I know about this country or where I’m going.
We traveled almost 2.5 hours up the mountain on a dirt road, which was full of big ruts from rain washouts, etc. When I saw the trucks that carry people I was glad for the choice he made. There are trucks like pick-ups that load full of all manner of cargo and then the people pile in and sit on the sides. I could just imagine hitting one of those big ruts and me toppling overboard.
Judnel’s mother lives in Saint Raphael but these days she is at her garden house, which is where they grow the crops they sell at the market. The moto took us all the way for 300.
Can I say, “OWWWW, my butt !!!” ?
These people depend solely on the crops for their livelihood and right now they desperately need rain. Some days they have nothing to eat except the mangoes, which are just ripening. The fields are plowed and ready but nothing will grow at this point. Judnel and I stood in the yard and prayed for rain. There were thunder and clouds both evenings we were there but only a few drops. Where we live in Cabarete we’ve had almost too much rain and Thursday when we were back in Cap-Haitien it poured, but they didn’t get it on the other side of the mountain.
For most people in Haiti, their day begins before 5. By the time the sun is up they’re on their way to sell whatever is their means of income. Some may walk for 2 hours to arrive wherever the market is, carrying their goods on their head usually in a huge tub. You will even see many children as young as maybe 9 or 10 with their own load and their arms through the rungs of the little chair they will sit on for the day.
On Wednesday, we made the journey to the nearest market, because she needed to buy things for us to eat. We had taken rice and some other things with us but there’s always something more you need. We each took a turn riding on the horse but it was a long walk. On the way back, she wanted us to stop and bathe in the river so she could massage my aching body, but I was told that I shouldn’t swim in the fresh waters so we didn’t stop. We did wade through the river a few times to get across but I think that will be OK.
The houses are basically just a place to sleep as all the living is done outdoors. There’s no electricity. They walk to a well several fields away for their water. They brought jugs of water from somewhere for drinking but I have no idea what made it safe. All I know is that I didn’t get sick. They cook over an open fire, wash their clothes and themselves in a tub out back, and use a communal outhouse, which is a hole in the ground with a few boards strategically placed over it. I didn’t know whether to stand or crouch over the hole but assumed my aim would not be that great so I sat right down on it. (That description was for those of you who are extremely curious like I am.)
On Thursday we headed into Saint Raphael, where his mother’s house is. They offered the horse to me so I took advantage of it knowing it would be a long day of travel again. We left around 6 after we’d been over to watch his stepfather plowing with 2 borrowed bulls. They will be ready if/when the rains come. This horse is very small and I wondered how it could carry me and all the other things we were taking with us. I rode through the villages like a queen hearing “blanc” “blanc” everywhere I rode and trying to wave and say “bonjou” (Kréol “bonjour”) to as many people as I could.
We only spent a few minutes in Saint Raphael as the moto driver arrived to take us back to Cap-Haitien. This time he wanted 600 for the same trip, something about it being Thurs., which Judnel couldn’t understand, nor could I, so Judnel said we could go by truck. He lowered it to 500 and I said I couldn’t pay that much so we started for the truck. He tried again for 400. I said I only had 350 because that’s what we had paid to come (I guess it had been a mistake for me to tip him 50 for the drive up) so he finally agreed. I was very glad I hadn’t agreed to more when I found out his girlfriend would be coming too. And we thought the drive up was difficult. 4 on a motorbike. Poor Judnel riding on the back sitting only on the metal rack. When we got to Cap-Haitien he still tried for 50 more but by then I was too sore and mad to even try to be nice.
We went to see Judnel’s aunt, where he had spent the first night. She was delighted to see us and seemed genuinely pleased to meet me. We left our bags there when we went into the city to see the Pastor. When he finished work, he took us to see a property he has where he wants to build a school and clinic. God has a big work to do in Haiti and I have started to ask if I have some part in His plan.
We had a great night with the aunt and uncle and cousins and his brother who also lives there. We were all trying to communicate in each other’s languages. They were delighted when I spoke Kréol and I was equally delighted that they understood. We probably stayed up later than they usually do since we were up again the next morning by 5.
Mid-morning we reluctantly said our good-byes and headed off to meet the Pastor for our journey back to Cabarete, which would take us a total of 8.5 hours. It’s not that the distances are so long but the roads are not great and the bus stops wherever anyone is waiting plus on this trip we had no less than 8 checkpoints for immigration to come on and check for illegals from Haiti.
As I climbed off the final moto at the door of the church, the lens fell out of my glasses and all I could think to do was give thanks to God once again for taking such good care of me and not letting that happen during the trip.
Now as I reflect on a trip that took about 20 years to actually happen I can tell you it was an unforgettable experience and something I will treasure always. The Haitian people I have met are beautiful both inside and out and I have been truly blessed to walk among them.
When we reached Dajabon we had to walk several blocks through swarms of people coming and going with their wheelbarrows of goods or their load on their head. It’s amazing to see the amount of stuff they can carry on their heads. The bridge was packed with people but if it’s closer for them they just walk through the river to get across to their destination.
I had to stop at the DR office of immigration (I think that’s what it is) and pay $25.US to leave. I’m not sure why I couldn’t just have walked into Haiti because I didn’t see any checkpoints or controls anywhere. The same on the Haitian side. I just walked voluntarily into their office and paid my $1.US, but no one forced me to do that. It seemed like I could have just kept on walking along like all the other people. Anyway, I did it right and then we hopped on the ‘moto’ and headed to Ouanaminthe. The Pastor took us to meet his sister whose house we would rest at while he was at work.
After he left we decided to go exploring and went to the market and wandered around for a couple of hours. I felt like I couldn’t waste a minute just sitting around. I had given one girl the money to buy and prepare the food for us so we went back to the house after our walk and played some cards with the children. Judnel is such a considerate young man. He made sure everyone had something to eat even though they didn’t want to come to the table with us.
When we had finished the girls said they would take us for a walk and we went to the town square where they were busily cleaning in preparation for Flag Day on Tuesday. We played a bit on the teeter-totters and then Judnel went to call his mother to tell her we would arrive the next day. This was accomplished by stopping one of the many boys/men who are wandering around with a satellite phone for this purpose. The majority of the people can’t afford a cell phone, although they are getting more and more common, so you give them the number to dial and depending on how long you talk it can cost as little as 5 goude. Fortunately the goude and the peso are about the same value right now so it wasn’t too difficult for me to convert to their currency.
That night I also learned that 1000 goude makes $200 Haitian. I stayed in a small hotel and my room was $200. Lest you think that’s extravagant for a missionary, that’s less than $35.CDN. I was thrilled to find I would have my own bathroom in my room with running water and even electricity for the evening and a ceiling fan. I was really tired and although I tried to write my journal I faded out by 10. The bed was comfortable and the place was quiet which amazed me.
Next morning I got up around 5(6 DR time). Pastor and Judnel arrived for me around 7. I got some money changed and we headed out to buy some things to take to his mother. We had a little boat ride for 5 goude, which took us to the other side of the river and there we ran into a friend of his who drives a moto. We decided that was the best way to go to his mother’s. Well actually all the time I deferred to his judgment because what do I know about this country or where I’m going.
We traveled almost 2.5 hours up the mountain on a dirt road, which was full of big ruts from rain washouts, etc. When I saw the trucks that carry people I was glad for the choice he made. There are trucks like pick-ups that load full of all manner of cargo and then the people pile in and sit on the sides. I could just imagine hitting one of those big ruts and me toppling overboard.
Judnel’s mother lives in Saint Raphael but these days she is at her garden house, which is where they grow the crops they sell at the market. The moto took us all the way for 300.
Can I say, “OWWWW, my butt !!!” ?
These people depend solely on the crops for their livelihood and right now they desperately need rain. Some days they have nothing to eat except the mangoes, which are just ripening. The fields are plowed and ready but nothing will grow at this point. Judnel and I stood in the yard and prayed for rain. There were thunder and clouds both evenings we were there but only a few drops. Where we live in Cabarete we’ve had almost too much rain and Thursday when we were back in Cap-Haitien it poured, but they didn’t get it on the other side of the mountain.
For most people in Haiti, their day begins before 5. By the time the sun is up they’re on their way to sell whatever is their means of income. Some may walk for 2 hours to arrive wherever the market is, carrying their goods on their head usually in a huge tub. You will even see many children as young as maybe 9 or 10 with their own load and their arms through the rungs of the little chair they will sit on for the day.
On Wednesday, we made the journey to the nearest market, because she needed to buy things for us to eat. We had taken rice and some other things with us but there’s always something more you need. We each took a turn riding on the horse but it was a long walk. On the way back, she wanted us to stop and bathe in the river so she could massage my aching body, but I was told that I shouldn’t swim in the fresh waters so we didn’t stop. We did wade through the river a few times to get across but I think that will be OK.
The houses are basically just a place to sleep as all the living is done outdoors. There’s no electricity. They walk to a well several fields away for their water. They brought jugs of water from somewhere for drinking but I have no idea what made it safe. All I know is that I didn’t get sick. They cook over an open fire, wash their clothes and themselves in a tub out back, and use a communal outhouse, which is a hole in the ground with a few boards strategically placed over it. I didn’t know whether to stand or crouch over the hole but assumed my aim would not be that great so I sat right down on it. (That description was for those of you who are extremely curious like I am.)
On Thursday we headed into Saint Raphael, where his mother’s house is. They offered the horse to me so I took advantage of it knowing it would be a long day of travel again. We left around 6 after we’d been over to watch his stepfather plowing with 2 borrowed bulls. They will be ready if/when the rains come. This horse is very small and I wondered how it could carry me and all the other things we were taking with us. I rode through the villages like a queen hearing “blanc” “blanc” everywhere I rode and trying to wave and say “bonjou” (Kréol “bonjour”) to as many people as I could.
We only spent a few minutes in Saint Raphael as the moto driver arrived to take us back to Cap-Haitien. This time he wanted 600 for the same trip, something about it being Thurs., which Judnel couldn’t understand, nor could I, so Judnel said we could go by truck. He lowered it to 500 and I said I couldn’t pay that much so we started for the truck. He tried again for 400. I said I only had 350 because that’s what we had paid to come (I guess it had been a mistake for me to tip him 50 for the drive up) so he finally agreed. I was very glad I hadn’t agreed to more when I found out his girlfriend would be coming too. And we thought the drive up was difficult. 4 on a motorbike. Poor Judnel riding on the back sitting only on the metal rack. When we got to Cap-Haitien he still tried for 50 more but by then I was too sore and mad to even try to be nice.
We went to see Judnel’s aunt, where he had spent the first night. She was delighted to see us and seemed genuinely pleased to meet me. We left our bags there when we went into the city to see the Pastor. When he finished work, he took us to see a property he has where he wants to build a school and clinic. God has a big work to do in Haiti and I have started to ask if I have some part in His plan.
We had a great night with the aunt and uncle and cousins and his brother who also lives there. We were all trying to communicate in each other’s languages. They were delighted when I spoke Kréol and I was equally delighted that they understood. We probably stayed up later than they usually do since we were up again the next morning by 5.
Mid-morning we reluctantly said our good-byes and headed off to meet the Pastor for our journey back to Cabarete, which would take us a total of 8.5 hours. It’s not that the distances are so long but the roads are not great and the bus stops wherever anyone is waiting plus on this trip we had no less than 8 checkpoints for immigration to come on and check for illegals from Haiti.
As I climbed off the final moto at the door of the church, the lens fell out of my glasses and all I could think to do was give thanks to God once again for taking such good care of me and not letting that happen during the trip.
Now as I reflect on a trip that took about 20 years to actually happen I can tell you it was an unforgettable experience and something I will treasure always. The Haitian people I have met are beautiful both inside and out and I have been truly blessed to walk among them.
What a wonderful blog. Thank you for sharing this with us, Jackie.
ReplyDelete